PT 3

JIL SANDER 

Jil Sander's designs are synonymous with understated design and refined luxury according to the brand's Oki-No biography. Founded in 1973, the brand was under the creative direction of Raf Simons between 2005 and 2012 when he departed for Dior. During this period, Sander reclaimed control of her eponymous label, only to leave it again in October of 2013. Born 27 November 1943, German Heidemarie Jiline Sander is described as the 'Queen of Less.' 

When Jil Sander's menswear is achromatic, whether it's all black, all grey, navy... anything muted basically, that's the label at it's best in my opinion. I'm not much for bright colours in large quantities anymore. Sander does tailoring immaculately and it really shines through atop duller hues if ever there was a backhanded compliment. Fall 2011 was one of the best collections for the menswear line of the brand if I forget the oranges/corals/magentas happened. Done. Yes the layering was key, even if it was as simple as a suit or cropped, short sleeve sweaters over polo necks. Textures which added nuance. Beautifully executed black clothes better suited to the streets of Europe, upon mopeds or behind a cigarette.

Advance one season to the Spring/Summer of 2012 and perfection is defined on the bodies of male models with dark hair gelled to the face. Coats and trenches made of plastic, with accents of neons atop black similar to that of Tait's designs. The accessories really shine this time around without distracting from the glorious navy pleats or large witch like collars. It's crocodile print and it comes in grey's and oranges and blues and if ever I had to choose one collection to wear for the rest of my life, don't quote me but, this would probably be it. Raf Simons really pushes minimalism into the spotlight.

I think it may be the reference to my favourite Upper East Siders (Gossip Girl) which draws me to Sander's collections, elegant simplicity in private school colour palettes. In looking at Jil Sander as a brand, I feel it is something that we can easily emulate at much less of a cost, although it would be lovely to splash out a small fortune on a well-executed product by the house. Sander inspires something within me, which is to create this idea of something being expensive and luxurious in choosing minimal, yet well tailored garments. It's about details and about accessories not about how much money you invest.