Thoughts on PT 2

If I look to words rather than ideologies as to pre-existing sub-cultures, it will always come down to one for me. That word will always be Punk. Why? Because punk is, as high profile writer Jon Savage claimed, a 'bricolage' of almost every previous Western youth sub-culture: a summation of diverse and contrasting ideas which are influential in the construction of art. Punk is an attitude, it is in the way you wear something rather than what it is that you choose to wear. Punk challenges idealisms and refuses to conform to what is deemed the 'norm' so not to appease to the masses but, rather to appeal to an individual's sense of style and taste.

In a piece titled "The Death and Life of Punk, The Last Subculture, published in 2003 for The Subcultures Reader (Oxford), A Dylan Clark writes that, '(...) tribes of contemporary people who might be called punk (and who often refuse to label themselves) , their subculture is partly in revolt from the popular discourse of subculture, from what has become, in punk eyes, a commercialized form of safe, affected discontent - a series of consumed subjectivities, including pre-fabricated ‘Alternative’ looks.' His theory is in favour of my decision to opt for a more diverse label so not to restrict myself for entering any other territory in my endeavours into dressing.

PT 2

In remaining loyal to yourself as a multi-faceted, multidimensional being the task of assigning yourself to any social construct such as a sub-culture proves a difficult task. If I look to it less as a statement about my person however, and more as a definition of the clothes that I wear, it becomes simpler to find an identity within a mass. True to this day, as it has been to each and every era, music has eloped with fashion. The current engagement being to Hip-Hop/RnB music. Look to Wang's S/S14 collections (both menswear and womenswear) of laser cuts and curving in which angst makes the transition to calculated rebellion in the form of fun; It is this world of nineties throwbacks and contemporary structures which I identify as my home.

Could I call my style Industrial? A hybrid of industrial and vamp fashions perhaps. Industramp. Although, there are hints of athleticism and bohemian undertones in my wardrobe too. I dress moreso for my body type, wearing shorter, bulkier silhouettes on my top so to give the appearance that my legs are longer in high waisted trousers, often with a straight leg, to balance out the heaviness. In terms of colour, industrial and vamp are both relevant words as I tend to wear darker hues: blues, greys, blacks and whites and more than often, tartans.

Above all, androgyny may be accredited to my overall aesthetic as at least 90% of my wardrobe consists of womenswear and has been the case since I purchased my first pair of skinny jeans as long as 7 years ago. Whilst I have no desire to become a woman, I may attribute this penchant to my petite frame and to my beliefs that menswear on the high street focuses primarily on one type of man; aiming to show the man what to wear so that he does not have to put much, if any, thought into styling himself.

Notably, I dress for myself as opposed to dressing to appeal to the penchants or desires of a wider audience. Since my move to London I have developed a broader understanding of what it is that I hope to achieve through my wardrobe and what is accessible and practical under time constraints and work circumstances. I am more inclined to opting for something that appears simple yet, bears complexities in the overall structure.

As a child bore in the 90s, I find there is a cohesion between my style and the shows I grew up watching. At the moment I am very much into magick and witchcraft, think Sabrina the Teenage Witch X American Horror Story: Coven. A current affliction I have is for Meadham Kirchhoff and their collaborating with Topshop, I like the anti-fashion vibes of the pieces that the duo produce, add a pastel fur or some glitter to a monochromatic outfit and that is my style. For now.

THE CRAFT 

SLC PUNK

Cheap Monday FW13

Song: You're Not The One

Artist: Sky Ferreira
Directed by Grant Singer

2013 Capitol Records, LLC

Song: Controversy

Artist: Natalia Kills

Directed by Guillaume Doubet

2012

Berskha gives an eclectic outlook on punk in their current window display. 

PT 1:2

FARFETCH.COM

Despite it's minimalistic layout, Farfetch provides an eclectic mix of editorial pieces alongside it's store facilities in an easy-to-navigate setting. The clothes are displayed in high definition, under lighting which allows you to see the detail of each garment unlike that of some of the competition and customers can view what is popular amongst others which may be useful for both the divergent and convergent fashionista.

oki-ni.com

Described by Google as offering exclusive designer menswear, oki-ni uses both editorial images and that of stock as hyperlinks through which the customer may access specific pages. Contrary to Farfetch, oki-ni displays it's stock on models however, at times this is achieved at a problematic angle by which details may be overshadowed by the aesthetic of the person wearing it.

ln-cc.com

ln-cc is definitely a layout for the artsy, tumblr type, perhaps embodying something more focused on the current generation of fashion entrepreneurs with editorial-esque backgrounds of potentially inspirational images. Click through and you arrive at pages that may or may not purposefully look like shots from a lookbook. Each item is pinned by designer which allows you to look at stock by collection and each photo has been styled more so to inspire/ to give ideas as to how something may be worn.

net-a-porter.com

Clothing, videos, trend reports, an e-magazine; all amongst a monochromatic backdrop. Perhaps a more classic take on a website with a considerable amount more of links and options; net-a-porter is easy to navigate and easier to understand than it's predecessors on this list. What is exciting about a website like this is the variety of designers and the range of prices, which makes fashion accessible to every audience.

NJAL (Not Just Another Label)

Self-acclaimed as 'discovering and supporting pioneers in contemporary fashion', NJAL's site is presented in the same format as you would see on a newspaper's site. With a variety of journalists contributing to an array of unique stories, Label focuses on how things influence fashion considerably more than the other online stores and gives an insight into upcoming talent in addition to a unique outlook on trends and style.

PT 1:1

TOPSHOP

An eclectic mix of muted colours in tailored basics, paired with grungey leather look staples and ovoid silhouettes make for a luxury outlook on minimalism. Topshop speaks mostly to an audience of teenage girls and younger women who look to have their outfits affordable and ready-made-to-wear however, embraces trends which are sub-culture specific. Chunky knits and laddered accessories are proof that the grunge/luxe style embraced by the likes of Gossip Girl's Jenny Humphrey are quintessential for a winter wardrobe.

URBAN OUTFITTERS

For myself, UO has always felt a little like a thrift store, it essentially stocks items of clothing that you would probably find in a vintage store/flea market albeit, with a high street price tag. In terms of what is on offer, inspiration comes from designer tartan pieces, namely pinafores and skirts a la Moschino, tailored more towards accessibility as opposed to asthetics.

SELFRIDGES

Selfridges stands among few others at the forefront of fast-pace, luxury fashion; appealing to all markets and yet only selling to one. Those with money. While the diversity of the brands makes for an exciting shopping experience, there is something intimidating and unnerving about the eyes of spokespeople and salespersons alike who know as well as you do that the price tag is a world away.

MATCHES

Whilst Matches, like Selfridges, offers designer labels it differentiates in that it is in a smaller space and that it's staff are more welcoming. As the stock is less dense, and the floor space is much wider, it almost feels as though you are in a gallery and have the opportunity to admire the tailoring and detail which has gone into each individual item.

ACNE

Stockholm established brand Acne's Dover St studio boasts minimalistic, capsule pieces in an intimate setting of four storeys. A lot of open floor space, the studio is exactly that, a place to admire the detail of each individual garment with Menswear hung on the ground floor and womenswear upstairs amongst sculpture-esque furniture and a scene through a picturesque window.

DOVER STREET MARKET 

A 6 floor love affair, seemingly an ode to the catwalk and a Comme Des Garcons catwalk more specifically, Dover Street Market features the more outlandish and youthful pieces from current collections and established designers and boasts quirky cash desks that may or may not have been plucked from a fairy tale. The staff each possess a unique outlook on uniform and each has their own unique visual identity albeit predominantly expressed through monochromatic hues and checks.

LIBERTY

Perhaps the most welcoming of the department stores, Liberty delivers designer items without pretension. The stock, like the customers remain the right to a space in the store and there is something to each and everybody's style and taste. A quintessential British store, the tudor-esque exterior makes for an aesthetically pleasing shopping experience.
BROWNS/BROWNS FOCUS

Brown's Focus store is Brown's younger, quirkier sibling in that a lot of what is sold is full of angst. From Ashish' sequin emblazoned garments to Christopher Kane prints, Focus embodies the personality of a fashion oriented teenager and serves as a platform for upcoming talent.


BURBERRY

There is always something intimidating about entering a designer store, laid out immaculately, full of well groomed women and men alike; suited up with a discerning look. Burberry serves as a quintessential British luxury, and while other branches in London offer more intimate spaces the New Bond St store offers variety and key investment pieces finer tuned towards a professional or polished look.